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Where we stay:
We stay at three
and four-star hotels, elegant Paradors, old monasteries that have been
converted to hotels and comfortable inns. All have old-world, Spanish atmosphere
yet with modern comforts.
All rooms in the hotels
which we use have a private
bathroom. Luggage is transported from
hotel to hotel. Our support bus is usually available for assistance at
various points along the way each day.
Roncesvalles We stay in the Posada
located near the "Collegiata". The Posada is a charming
mountain inn with beamed ceilings, tiled floors, huge fireplace
in the bar and
antique furniture. Stunning views can be seen
in all directions - the Pyrenees mountains, the ancient Collegiata and
miles of wooded countryside.
Rooms are very comfortable and attractive and at night the only sound is
of the wind in the mountains. The Posada is famous for its fresh
trout and Pilar, the hostess, has a wonderful recipe for roast
lamb with herbs.
Olite/Pamplona The Parador of Olite is a 15th century
castle which has been converted to a magnificent 4 star hotel. It is spectacular
with heavy Spanish antiques, vaulted ceilings and tapestries. It is in
the centre of a quaint medieval town and we have a chance to wander the
streets and visit the wine shops as well as to explore the
castle. This is one of the most atmospheric of all the Paradors
of Spain and it is worth the trip just to stay here for a night.
Puenta La Reina The charming Hotel Bidean is located on a
narrow cobblestoned street which is the original "Camino de Santiago"
through the old village. The street looks much like it did 1000 years ago in the days of the
pilgrims and here we truly get the feeling of going back in time with
the medieval bridge at the end of the street leading to the
continuation of the Camino. The historic inn has recently been restored with wooden beams and
many antiques. Rooms are small but comfortable. The dining room is in an
old wine cellar that has been cleverly converted in a mixture of ultra
modern and medieval architecture..
San Millan We stay at the remote Monasterio de San Millan
which is a beautiful 4 star hotel located inside the Monastery of Yuso
in an out-of-the-way village in a spectacular setting. This monastery dates back to early Christian times when a hermit, Yuso, lived in seclusion in a cave in the hills. A monastery was built
nearby and the most ancient documents written in Spanish
language have been found in its libraries. Today, part of the
monastery has been turned into a superb 4 star hotel with luxurious
rooms all with gorgeous views, antique furniture, comfortable
beds and classical music playing in the halls. Its dining rooms provides
excellent regional
wines and local cuisine.
Santo Domingo
de la Calzada. Here we stay at the Parador de Santo Domingo Bernardo de Fresneda
This lovely old Parador is sited in the Convent of San
Francisco, 800 meters from the historic center of Santo Domingo
de la Calzada. The convent was rebuilt in 1595 and is composed
of three clearly differentiated sections: Church, Museum-WorkShop
and Guest House. Under the modern cupola which covers the
novices patio, is the "Recreo" Restaurant, whose name refers to
the break the monks used to take in that same patio. The Parador
is located in the centre of the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada which is
one of the most atmospheric towns in Northern Spain.
Burgos The 3 star Meson del Cid is ideally located facing across an
historic plaza to the
front of Burgos' magnificent Cathedral in the heart of the city's historic quarter.
A former convent, the hotel has small but comfortable rooms, a well-regarded
restaurant and great views of the old section of town.
Carrion de Los Condes We stay at the wonderful old
Real Monasterio de San
Zoilo in a quiet location outside the town of Carrion de los Condes and right on the Camino de Santiago path.
The hotel is beautiful with original 12th century cloister and a dining room in
the original stone-walled refectory. The rooms are large and
old-fashioned with the original shutters opening onto the
cloister and courtyard. The only sound is the birds in the trees
in the courtyard and an occasional creaking floor. Rooms have
some of the original furniture but the beds are comfortable and
the bathrooms are modern. Soft Gregorian chants mix with the
clink of glasses in the bar.
Leon The 3 star Posada Regia is just a block from the
Cathedral and in the heart of the historic quarter. The hotel has
antique furniture, beamed ceilings and lots of atmosphere. It has been
completely renovated and is very comfortable without losing its old
world charm. Its restaurant is one of the best in the city. When we were
there last time a restaurant critic from an Italian newspaper
was there doing an article and he claimed the Posada Regia
restaurant had a reputation
for wonderful organic food - the chickens used are free-range
from nearby farms - carefully selected for flavour. The
vegetables are organic and the chef prides himself on cooking
everything to perfection. He even makes his own organic
ice-cream.
Astorga The 3 star Hotel Gaudi is a very comfortable
hotel located on the main square facing the Cathedral and
the fanciful Bishop's Palace which was designed by the famous Spanish
architect Antoni Gaudi. The bar is a gathering spot for locals and
serves a joltingly strong cup of espresso or a glass of local
wine. Just down the street one finds an array of chocolate shops
- Astorga was one of the first places in Spain to use chocolate
brought back by the Conquistadores from South America and it is
famous for its delicious chocolate confections.
Villafranca del Bierzo The lovely Parador
Villafranca del Bierzo is located at the
edge of the historic town. This is part of the Parador Hotels of Spain -
comfortable and atmospheric with excellent food including the sumptuous
buffet breakfast for which all Paradors are famous. Rooms are large,
comfortable and quiet. There is a lovely outdoor patio
surrounded by roses where once can have a quiet drink before
dinner (the Parador is currently closed for renovations. If it
does not reopen in time we will stay in the Floriana Hotel in
Molinaseca. In 2010 the Parador at Villafranca is closed
for renovation so we will return to Astorga where we spend two
nights.
Parador Monforte de Lemos This 4 star Parador is situated at
the highest point of the town of Monforte de Lemos and is comprised of
the Keep, the San Vicente do Pino Monastery and the Condes de Lemos
Palace; the latter two house the Parador de Monforte. The origins of the
monastery date back to the 9th century, although the current building,
erected on the site of an earlier one, is Neo-classical and dates to the
17th century. The original doorway, with the shields of Lemos and the
Castro y Osorio and Enriquez families has been conserved. The
stark monastery has been restored and converted into a Parador with
50 rooms distributed around the central cloister.
Portomarin The 3 star Pousada de Portomorin is a
lovely, two-story inn set on a hill at the edge of
town and with wonderful views over a lake and the hills beyond. It was
built in the 1960's by the dictator Franco to encourage tourism
to his native area of Spain and no expense was spared in the
construction. This
is our favorite hotel along the Camino. Rooms are quiet, spacious and well-appointed
with huge marble bathrooms. The hotel has
three stars but we think it deserves more. The highlight of dinner here
is the flaming quemada drinks that follow dessert. There is a
traditional story that accompanies the drink whose origins come
from the folk-lore of the area.
In Santiago Our hotel, the Virxe de Cerca, is an 18th
century former Jesuit residence located in the old quarter near the Cathedral.
It is an atmospheric, four-star hotel that still has the stone
walls of the former monastery but now is a comfortable hotel
surrounding a garden courtyard. Rooms are equipped with hairdryer, safe, satellite TV,
minibar, phone and air conditioning.
Meals: Breakfast is always included (usually a buffet). Most dinners are
included except in the cities where there are are a variety of nearby
restaurants available. The dinners that are included are in hotel and
Parador dining rooms allowing everyone to sample regional
cuisine which changes along the route. The food is excellent and
plentiful. Picnic lunches are included on the days when
restaurants are not available at mid-day. Walkers who have been on the
tour in the past agree that the picnics are wonderful with lots
of red wine, fresh gazpacho soup, crusty bread, local cheeses
and a variety of local ingredients for sandwiches. Spain is
famous for its fruit and vegetables. The avocados are superb,
the white asparagus memorable.
Along the route there is often a chance to stop in a local bar
for a drink or for a steaming cup of Spanish coffee along with a
fresh pastry and there are ice-cream sellers tempting you on
warm days. Our walks traverse the famous La Rioja wine
region and there is plenty of opportunity for sampling. |