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15 night Itinerary:
Day 1 - Meet at the Barcelo Nervion Hotel in central Bilbao
at 3.30 pm. Transfer by private coach to our first hotel
at Roncesvalles. This is a
quiet hamlet near the French border at the end of the pass through the
Pyrenees and it is where medieval pilgrims arrived into Spain en route
to Santiago. Roncesvalles
is filled with history. Legend says that Charlemagne’s army (led by his nephew
Roland) was defeated here in 778 and the battle was immortalized
in the medieval epic poem "La Chanson de Roland". We stay at a lovely
Posada near the "Collegiata" which is a beautiful old monastery/museum in a
tranquil
mountain setting. Dinner included. Roncesvalles is known for its
wonderful fresh trout from the mountain streams. RONCESVALLES
Day 2 - Today we cross the border to the lively French
village of St Jean-Pied-du-Port. After a chance for a cafe-au-lait
and perhaps to buy a pilgrim's walking stick we are taken by mini-bus up into
the Pyrenees and from here we trace the ancient pilgrim's route along a beautiful mountain ridge.
On a clear day the views are spectacular with snow-capped peaks in
the distance. In medieval times this route was considered safer than the
low road where ambushes by robbers were frequent. Although it is high in
the mountains, the trail is easy walking with
only a few short ascents. The walk ends at Roncesvalles
where we spend the night
again in the
Posada. Before dinner we visit the Collegiata whose construction is
thought to have begun in the 900's. The museum contains artifacts and
paintings associated with many legends and historic tales including the
tomb of King Sancho El Fuerte whose broken chains are still part of the
symbol of the region of Navarre. Dinner at the Posada included.
RONCESVALLES
Day 3 - On
today's walk we have a gradual descent through forests and villages of
the Navarre Region including the village of Burquete which Hemingway wrote about in
his novel "The Sun Also Rises".
It is picturesque, quiet, mountain country and the walking easy. We
continue by bus through Pamplona (if time permits we stop for a quick
visit to the old city) and continue by bus to the medieval village of Olite, just south of Pamplona where we stay at the
spectacular Parador of Olite - an
amazing hotel which is part of an old castle complete with turrets.
Walls are hung with antique tapestries and it is not hard to be
transported in one's imagination to medieval times. In spite of being in
an old castle, the rooms are luxurious. OLITE Day 4 - Today
we walk from just outside Pamplona. The trail is through rolling countryside to the village of Puente la Reina where we stay in a small
hotel located on a narrow, cobble-stoned street. This street is still part of
the pilgrim's path as it has been for a thousand years. At the
end of the street we see the Puente La Reina
(Queen's Bridge) which was built in medieval times for the pilgrims and
is still used today.
Dinner in the inn's dining room which has been converted from an old
wine cellar.
PUENTE LA REINA
Day 5
- Our
walk is through gentle countryside filled with vineyards and tranquil
villages of the La Rioja wine district. La
Rioja wine is the most famous in Spain but the region is also known for
its white asparagus and its fruit. The
walk ends at the interesting town of Estella which sits astride a craggy bend in
a rushing river. We stay at a
beautiful, four-star
hotel inside the remote, four-hundred year old Monasterio del Yuso. There are many legends
associated with this monastery - it is said that the oldest books
written in the
Spanish language (Castilian) were found in its library. The secluded setting is exquisite
surrounded by wild green hills. Dinner included. SAN MILLAN
Day 6 - Today our walk starts near the medieval town of Santo
Domingo de la Calzada and we continue towards Belorado.
The trail winds through gentle rolling hills and tiny villages. At the end of our walk we
continue by bus into the fairy-tale
city of Burgos where the castle, palaces and monasteries reveal the
city’s past grandeur. In medieval times Burgos was the
most significant stopping place for pilgrims and today it contains a
staggering wealth of art. This was the birth place of Spain’s legendary hero El Cid who, in
1094, fought with Christian forces against the Moors and his body lies in the magnificent cathedral (the second largest
in Spain)We spend the night
at the Hotel Meson del Cid which faces onto the cathedral plaza in the
historic quarter of the city. A former convent, this historic hotel
faces the Cathedral and it was once home to the first printing press in
Spain. BURGOS
Day 7 - Our walking tour in Burgos is led by a local guide
who is an expert in the history of the city. The tour includes the great, gothic
Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and we hear stories of El Cid and
how he tricked local money-lenders into lending him money to finance his
troops. We visit the Monasterio de
Las Huelgas which, founded in 1187, is
one of the most important monuments in Spain. The remainder of the day is free to explore Burgos which is one of
Iberia's most beautiful cities with a lovely tree-lined walkway along
its river. Perhaps you would like to shop, sit in a cafe or sample
typical Spanish snacks called "Pinchos" . We stay again at the Meson del Cid. September is
street festival time in Burgos and in the evening streets are filled with
various musical and dance entertainment from guitar to flamenco to folk
to comic puppet shows. BURGOS
Day 8 - After a short bus ride we reach
our starting point on the Camino. From here we walk through the
golden meseta of Castile with its great plains and vistas and along the way
we picnic at the site of an old monastery. Our walk ends at a
small village with a ruined castle on a hill above it and those who still
feel energetic can climb to the castle for a wonderful view of the
countryside. At the end of the day there is a reward - we stay at a wonderful hotel within the historic
San Zoilo monastery located at the edge of the town of Carrion de los
Condes. In the 11th century the town was home to villainous Counts. Two of these Counts (according
to legend) married and
mistreated El Cid's daughters. Be sure to visit the beautiful cloister
before dinner. CARRION DE LOS CONDES
Day 9 - Our walk is again on the plains. On a
clear day mountains are visible in the distance but this part of Camino
de Santiago follows an ancient Roman road with flat, easy walking. The
breeze ripples fields of grain as we walk alongside a small river. We
end at the town of Villacazar which, in the 1200's, belonged to the
Knights Templar who battled the Muslims, defended holy places and
patrolled the Camino protecting pilgrims from bandits and thieves. There
is a fascinating Templar church called the "Church of the White Virgin"
which is associated with many legends and miracles. From here, late in
the day, we go by bus into Leon, a remarkable city of soaring stone. Our
Posada hotel is in the historic centre. LEON
Day 10 - In the morning we walk to explore the old
quarter of Leon - the magnificent Cathedral with its remarkable
stained glass windows preserved from the 13th century, the Basilica de
San Isidoro with its Pantheon of Kings and fascinating artifacts from
the days of medieval pilgrimage. The Plaza de San Marcelo is the site of
the 16th Palace of Los Guzmanes with its balconies and courtyard and the
Casa de Botines, a 19th century work by the famous Spanish architect
Antoni Gaudi. The afternoon and evening are free. This
is a great place to experience a long Spanish lunch - lunch is the main
meal in Spain and shops close from about 2 - 4 (or sometimes 5 pm).
LEON
Day 11 - In the morning we drive from Leon to start our walk at Orbigo. It was here, on the
bridge at Orbigo, in 1434 that a knight, Suero, held what may have held
the last great medieval tournament. Suero challenged other knights to a joust
because he had been scorned by his lady love. Today if you stand on the
bridge and use a little imagination you can almost hear the horses
whinny and the clash of steel. Suero won the tournament which released
him from his prison of love and one can still see his gold bracelet in
the museum at Santiago.
At Orbigo the terrain changes from flat plains to gentle foothills -
the clouds soon reveal themselves to be chains of mountains - the Leon
Mountains to the West and the Cordillera Cantabrica to the North. Astorga's attractions
include a Cathedral built in
1471, a
fairytale Bishop's Palace built by the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi which now holds an
interesting "Museum of the Camino", a baroque Town Hall,
Roman ruins and a Museum of Chocolate which tells
the tale of a local chocolate industry that flourished when cocoa was
first brought from the New World by Columbus. Chocolate shops abound. Our hotel faces onto the
plaza overlooking the Gaudi palace and the cathedral. Dinner included.
ASTORGA
Day 12 - Beyond Astorga we begin one of the most historically important parts of the Camino
(and the most difficult) over Mount Irago. Our bus takes us up to near
the top ( those who feel more energetic can start earlier) to the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross)
under which pilgrims often place a stone which they have been carrying
as penance (a tradition that has been
continued from the 11th century). The terrain is bleak and rugged but
with lovely views and in spring the mountains are covered with
wildflowers. From the top we descend into the
lush "Bierzo" valley region to a tiny village of El Aceibo
which appears to be lost in a medieval time-warp. We then continue to the
beautiful town of Molinaseca with its Roman bridge. Distances range from
10 km to 21 km
depending on which starting point you choose. The walk continues
gradually downhill to the town of Molinaseca where walkers stop and
dabble their feet in the lovely stream, reward themselves with a beer in
a quaint cafe and browse through the narrow streets. At the end of
the day we return to Astorga. Dinner included.
ASTORGA
Day 13 - From Villafranca we have a short bus ride up the
Cebreiro pass. At remote O Cebreiro, a mysterious legend says that the Holy Grail ( the cup from which Christ
drank at the Last Supper) is hidden and many miracles are said to have
taken place. Low, oval stone houses called "pallozas" here are remnants
of Celtic times. This is one of the most scenic
stretches of the Camino (although the weather can be unpredictable). Terrain is wild and rugged but we start
our walk
near the top and make a gradual descent. (The more energetic walkers
start sooner). As we descend, the countryside
becomes more gentle. We are now in Galicia where gray and green tones predominate and one
hears the "Gallego" language (the local dialect).
Villages are strung along the Camino - sometimes just a few houses
surrounding a stone church. Fields are fenced with stone and brambles and
one sees the ruins of castles that once protected pilgrims. By mid
afternoon we reach the quaint town of Triacastela for lunch at a small
restaurant. At the end
of the day we are transferred to the village of Portomarin
which is our base for the next two nights. We stay at the lovely Pousada de Portomarin
which has beautiful
views of a lake and green hills. The town is known for its "queimadas"
(a flaming liqueur with sugar, lemon and coffee beans). Dinner included.
PORTOMARIN
Day 14
- Today
we travel by bus to Samos with its majestic monastery which was founded in the
6th century. The monastery is filled with art treasures and has a large
cloister with interesting carved keystones - most depict religious
themes related to the Benedictines but one has an amusing hieroglyphic
which says, "What are you looking at, stupid?" (Monks walking the
cloister were not supposed to be gazing at the ceiling.)
A large
library and some of the monastery were destroyed by fire in 1951 when
the monks'
still being used to make liqueur exploded!
Our hike today is on a tranquil,
hamlet-laden trail through gently rolling countryside - the most beautiful
section of our entire journey across Northern Spain. (For those who want
a less strenuous walk the distance can be shortened.) The trail winds
alongside jewel-like green fields and
between stone fences covered with blackberries and wild-flowers.
Occasionally walkers must stop as a farmer herds his cows
into a field. One
sees "horreos" (graneries), stone mills and crosses marking the way.
Sometimes it seems that time has forgotten this corner of rural Spain. In
the evening our bus takes us back to the Pousada at Portomarin. Dinner included.
PORTOMARIN
Day 15 - We
walk continues through Galicia and then we continue
by bus towards Santiago.
Those who want to walk the last historic bit into Santiago can
do this although we warn you that it goes through some industrial and
modern sections. This section starts at "Mount of Joy" where pilgrims first caught a glimpse of Santiago Cathedral’s bell towers. Tradition says that the first one of a group to
arrive at the top was nicknamed Leroy (The King). Pilgrims also stopped to
wash at Lavacolla (probably the first time in months since in the 1100's
soap and water were considered unhealthy). It is a tradition that
all pilgrims head for the Cathedral on arrival and hug the statue of St
James.
Our hotel is an 18th century former
Jesuit residence located in the old quarter near the Cathedral. It surrounds
a lovely garden courtyard. In the evening we have a farewell dinner. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Day 16
- Our tour ends after breakfast. If you want to stay for another day or
two to explore Santiago's historic sites, extra hotel nights can be
arranged.
Those who
wish can attend the Pilgrims'
mass
at the Cathedral at midday.
The Cathedral has audio-guides in English which tell you about the
history and the art. Adjacent to the Cathedral is a Museum of the
Pilgrims. There is a local bus you can take to Finisterre or it is
fascinating just to wander
Santiago's
narrow medieval streets filled with shops and cafes.
The region is known for its great seafood and local cheeses.
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