WALKERS’ WORLD
Camino de Santiago (St James Way)
Guided walk across Northern Spain


September 12 - 27, 2010  (15 nights)
May 13 - 28, 2011 (15 nights)
Sept 16 - Oct 1, 2011 (15 nights)   

15 night  Itinerary:  

Day 1  - Meet at the Barcelo Nervion Hotel in central Bilbao at 3.30 pm. Transfer by private coach to our first hotel at  Roncesvalles. This is a quiet hamlet near the French border at the end of the pass through the Pyrenees and it is where medieval pilgrims arrived into Spain en route to Santiago. Roncesvalles is filled with history. Legend says that Charlemagne’s army (led by his nephew Roland) was defeated here in 778 and the battle was immortalized in the medieval epic poem "La Chanson de Roland".  We stay at a lovely Posada near the "Collegiata" which is a beautiful old monastery/museum in a tranquil mountain setting. Dinner included. Roncesvalles is known for its wonderful fresh trout from the mountain streams. RONCESVALLES

Day 2   - Today we cross the border to the lively French village of  St Jean-Pied-du-Port. After a chance for a cafe-au-lait and perhaps to buy a pilgrim's walking stick we are taken by mini-bus up into the Pyrenees and from here we trace the ancient pilgrim's route along a beautiful mountain ridge. On a clear day the views are spectacular with snow-capped peaks in the distance. In medieval times this route was considered safer than the low road where ambushes by robbers were frequent. Although it is high in the mountains, the trail is easy walking with only a few short ascents. The walk ends at Roncesvalles where we spend the night again in the Posada. Before dinner we visit the Collegiata whose construction is thought to have begun in the 900's. The museum contains artifacts and paintings associated with many legends and historic tales including the tomb of King Sancho El Fuerte whose broken chains are still part of the symbol of the region of Navarre. Dinner at the Posada included. RONCESVALLES

Day 3  -   On today's walk we have a gradual descent through forests and villages of the Navarre Region including the village of Burquete which Hemingway wrote about in his novel "The Sun Also Rises". It is picturesque, quiet, mountain country and the walking easy. We continue by bus through Pamplona (if time permits we stop for a quick visit to the old city) and continue by bus to the medieval village of Olite, just south of Pamplona where we stay at the spectacular Parador of Olite - an amazing hotel which is part of an old castle complete with turrets. Walls are hung with antique tapestries and it is not hard to be transported in one's imagination to medieval times. In spite of being in an old castle, the rooms are luxurious. OLITE

Day 4  -  Today we walk from just outside Pamplona. The trail is through rolling countryside to the village of Puente la Reina where we stay in a small hotel located on a narrow, cobble-stoned street. This street is still part of the pilgrim's path as it has been for a thousand years. At the end of the street we see the Puente La Reina (Queen's Bridge) which was built in medieval times for the pilgrims and is still used today. Dinner in the inn's dining room which has been converted from an old wine cellar. 
PUENTE LA REINA

Day 5  - Our walk is through gentle countryside filled with vineyards and tranquil villages of the La Rioja wine district. La Rioja wine is the most famous in Spain but the region is also known for its white asparagus and its fruit. The walk ends at the interesting town of Estella which sits astride a craggy bend in a rushing river. We stay at a beautiful, four-star hotel inside the remote, four-hundred year old Monasterio del Yuso. There are many legends associated with this monastery - it is said that the oldest books written in the Spanish language (Castilian) were found in its library. The secluded setting is exquisite surrounded by wild green hills. Dinner included. SAN MILLAN 

Day 6  -  Today our walk starts near the medieval town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada and we continue towards Belorado. The trail winds through gentle rolling hills and tiny villages. At the end of our walk we continue by bus into the fairy-tale city of Burgos where the castle, palaces and monasteries reveal the city’s past grandeur. In medieval times Burgos was the most significant stopping place for pilgrims and today it contains a staggering wealth of art. This was the birth place of Spain’s legendary hero El Cid who, in 1094, fought with Christian forces against the Moors and his body lies in the magnificent cathedral (the second largest in Spain)We spend the night at the Hotel Meson del Cid which faces onto the cathedral plaza in the historic quarter of the city. A former convent, this historic hotel faces the Cathedral and it was once home to the first printing press in Spain. BURGOS

Day 7 -  Our walking tour in Burgos is led by a local guide who is an expert in the history of the city. The tour includes the great, gothic Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and we hear stories of El Cid and how he tricked local money-lenders into lending him money to finance his troops. We visit the Monasterio de Las Huelgas which, founded in 1187, is one of the most important monuments in Spain. The remainder of the day is free to explore Burgos which is one of Iberia's most beautiful cities with a lovely tree-lined walkway along its river. Perhaps you would like to shop, sit in a cafe or sample typical Spanish snacks called "Pinchos" . We stay again at the Meson del Cid. September is street festival time in Burgos and in the evening streets are filled with various musical and dance entertainment from guitar to flamenco to folk to comic puppet shows. BURGOS

Day 8  - After a short bus ride we reach our starting point on the Camino. From here  we walk through the golden meseta of Castile with its great plains and vistas and along the way we picnic at the site of an old monastery. Our walk ends at a small village with a ruined castle on a hill above it and those who still feel energetic can climb to the castle for a wonderful view of the countryside. At the end of the day there is a reward - we stay at a wonderful hotel within the historic San Zoilo monastery located at the edge of the town of Carrion de los Condes. In the 11th century the town was home to villainous Counts. Two of these Counts (according to legend) married and mistreated El Cid's daughters. Be sure to visit the beautiful cloister before dinner. CARRION DE LOS CONDES

Day 9  - Our walk is again on the plains. On a clear day mountains are visible in the distance but this part of Camino de Santiago follows an ancient Roman road with flat, easy walking. The breeze ripples fields of grain as we walk alongside a small river. We end at the town of Villacazar which, in the 1200's, belonged to the Knights Templar who battled the Muslims, defended holy places and patrolled the Camino protecting pilgrims from bandits and thieves. There is a fascinating Templar church called the "Church of the White Virgin" which is associated with many legends and miracles. From here, late in the day, we go by bus into Leon, a remarkable city of soaring stone. Our Posada hotel is in the historic centre. LEON

Day 10   - In the morning we walk to explore the old quarter of Leon -  the magnificent Cathedral with its remarkable stained glass windows preserved from the 13th century, the Basilica de San Isidoro with its Pantheon of Kings and fascinating artifacts from the days of medieval pilgrimage. The Plaza de San Marcelo is the site of the 16th Palace of Los Guzmanes with its balconies and courtyard and the Casa de Botines, a 19th century work by the famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi. The afternoon and evening are free. This is a great place to experience a long Spanish lunch - lunch is the main meal in Spain and shops close from about 2 - 4 (or sometimes 5 pm). LEON

Day 11   - In the morning we drive from Leon to start our walk at Orbigo. It was here, on the bridge at Orbigo, in 1434 that a knight, Suero, held what may have held the last great medieval tournament. Suero challenged other knights to a joust because he had been scorned by his lady love. Today if you stand on the bridge and use a little imagination you can almost hear the horses whinny and the clash of steel. Suero won the tournament which released him from his prison of love and one can still see his gold bracelet in the museum at Santiago.
At Orbigo the terrain changes from flat plains to gentle foothills - the clouds soon reveal themselves to be chains of mountains - the Leon Mountains to the West and the Cordillera Cantabrica to the North.  Astorga's attractions include a Cathedral built in 1471, a fairytale Bishop's Palace built by the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi which now holds an interesting "Museum  of the Camino", a baroque Town Hall, Roman ruins and a Museum of Chocolate which tells the tale of a local chocolate industry that flourished when cocoa was first brought from the New World by Columbus. Chocolate shops abound. Our hotel faces onto the plaza overlooking the Gaudi palace and the cathedral. Dinner included. ASTORGA

Day 12  - Beyond Astorga we begin one of the most historically important parts of the Camino (and the most difficult) over Mount Irago. Our bus takes us up to near the top ( those who feel more energetic can start earlier) to the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross) under which pilgrims often place a stone which they have been carrying as penance (a tradition that has been continued from the 11th century). The terrain is bleak and rugged but with lovely views and in spring the mountains are covered with wildflowers. From the top we descend into the lush "Bierzo" valley region to a tiny village of El Aceibo which appears to be lost in a medieval time-warp. We then continue to the beautiful town of Molinaseca with its Roman bridge. Distances range from 10 km to 21 km depending on which starting point you choose. The walk continues gradually downhill to the town of Molinaseca where walkers stop and dabble their feet in the lovely stream, reward themselves with a beer in a quaint cafe and browse through the narrow streets.  At the end of the day we return to Astorga. Dinner included.    ASTORGA

Day 13  - From Villafranca we have a short bus ride up the Cebreiro pass. At remote O Cebreiro, a mysterious legend says that the Holy Grail ( the cup from which Christ drank at the Last Supper) is hidden and many miracles are said to have taken place. Low, oval stone houses called "pallozas" here are remnants of Celtic times. This is one of the most scenic stretches of the Camino (although the weather can be unpredictable). Terrain is wild and rugged but we start our walk near the top and make a gradual descent. (The more energetic walkers start sooner). As we descend, the countryside becomes more gentle. We are now in Galicia where gray and green tones predominate and one hears the "Gallego" language (the local dialect). Villages are strung along the Camino - sometimes just a few houses surrounding a stone church. Fields are fenced with stone and brambles and one sees the ruins of castles that once protected pilgrims. By mid afternoon we reach the quaint town of Triacastela for lunch at a small restaurant.  At the end of the day we are transferred to the village of Portomarin  which is our base for the next two nights. We stay at the lovely Pousada de Portomarin which has beautiful views of a lake and green hills. The town is known for its "queimadas" (a flaming liqueur with sugar, lemon and coffee beans). Dinner included. PORTOMARIN

Day 14   - Today we travel by bus to Samos with its majestic monastery which was founded in the 6th century. The monastery is filled with art treasures and has a large cloister with interesting carved keystones - most depict religious themes related to the Benedictines but one has an amusing hieroglyphic which says, "What are you looking at, stupid?" (Monks walking the cloister were not supposed to be gazing at the ceiling.) A large library and some of the monastery were destroyed by fire in 1951 when the monks' still being used to make liqueur exploded! 
Our hike today is on a tranquil, hamlet-laden trail through gently rolling countryside - the most beautiful section of our entire journey across Northern Spain. (For those who want a less strenuous walk the distance can be shortened.) The trail winds alongside jewel-like green fields and between stone fences covered with blackberries and wild-flowers. Occasionally walkers must stop as a farmer herds his cows into a field.  One sees "horreos" (graneries), stone mills and crosses marking the way. Sometimes it seems that time has forgotten this corner of rural Spain. In the evening our bus takes us back to the Pousada at Portomarin. Dinner included. PORTOMARIN

Day 15 -  We walk continues through Galicia and then we continue by bus towards Santiago. Those who want to walk the last historic bit into Santiago can do this although we warn you that it goes through some industrial and modern sections. This section starts at "Mount of Joy" where pilgrims first caught a glimpse of Santiago Cathedral’s bell towers. Tradition says that the first one of a group to arrive at the top was nicknamed Leroy (The King). Pilgrims also stopped to wash at Lavacolla (probably the first time in months since in the 1100's soap and water were considered unhealthy).  It is a tradition that all pilgrims head for the Cathedral on arrival and hug the statue of St James. Our hotel is an 18th century former Jesuit residence located in the old quarter near the Cathedral. It surrounds a lovely garden courtyard. In the evening we have a farewell dinner. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Day 16  - Our tour ends after breakfast. If you want to stay for another day or two to explore Santiago's historic sites, extra hotel nights can be arranged. Those who wish can attend the Pilgrims'  mass at the Cathedral at midday. The Cathedral has audio-guides in English which tell you about the history and the art. Adjacent to the Cathedral is a Museum of the Pilgrims. There is a local bus you can take to Finisterre or it is fascinating just to wander Santiago's narrow medieval streets filled with shops and cafes. The region is known for its great seafood and local cheeses.

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