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15 night Itinerary:
Day 1 - We
meet at the Barcelo Nervion Hotel in central Bilbao
at 3.30 pm and immediately transfer by private coach to our first hotel
at Roncesvalles, a
quiet hamlet in the foothills of the Pyrennees near the French border. This is
the Camino's traditional start to the "French Route" where medieval pilgrims arrived
into Spain
from France after an arduous walk through the mountains. Roncesvalles
is filled with history. Legend says that Charlemagne’s army (led by his nephew
Roland) was defeated here in 778 and the battle was immortalized
in the medieval epic poem "La Chanson de Roland". We stay
for two nights at a lovely
Posada in this tranquil mountain setting. Nearby, we find the "Collegiata",
a beautiful old monastery/museum built in the 13th century to
provide hospital facilities for pilgrims. Dinner is included. The Posada at Roncesvalles is known for its
trout fresh from the mountain streams. RONCESVALLES
Day 2 - This morning our support bus takes us
eastbound across the border to the lively French town of St Jean-Pied-de-Port. There is a brief stop to see the
town, have a quick cafe-au-lait
and perhaps to buy a walking stick before we are taken by mini-bus up into
the pass through the Pyrenees to the start of our walk. From this
point high in the pass we trace the medieval route
between France and Spain along the mountain
trail. On a clear day
views are spectacular with snow-capped peaks in
the distance. In medieval times this route was considered safer than the
low road where ambushes by robbers were frequent. Although it is high in
the mountains, the trail is quite easy walking with
only a few short ascents. The walk ends by descending to Roncesvalles in
time for a picnic lunch and time to visit the Collegiata. The museum here contains artifacts and
paintings associated with legends and historic tales including the
tomb of King Sancho the Strong whose broken chains are still a
symbol of the Spanish province of Navarre. One of the museum's many
treasures is a chess set dating back to 778 AD that is said to
have belonged to the Emperor
Charlemagne. Dinner at the Posada included.
RONCESVALLES
Day 3 - On
today's walk we have a gradual descent through forests, fields and villages of
the Navarre Region including the village of Burquete which Hemingway wrote about in
his novel "The Sun Also Rises". This is picturesque country and the walking
is easy. We
walk as far as Viscarret then continue by bus through Pamplona (if time permits we stop for a quick
visit to the old city) and on to the medieval village of Olite, just south of Pamplona.
Here, we stay at the
spectacular Parador of Olite - an
amazing hotel which is part of an old castle complete with turrets.
Walls are hung with antique tapestries and it is not hard to be
transported in one's imagination to medieval times. In spite of being in
an old castle, the Parador's rooms are luxurious. The beautiful old town
is in the famous La Rioja wine country and the narrow streets are
lined with wine-shops and there is time for tasting before
dinner. Dinner at the Parador included.. OLITE Day 4 - Today
we walk starting from just outside Pamplona. The Camino trail is through rolling countryside
dotted with small villages. Each village has a cafe, a bar and
friendly locals who wave and wish the walkers "Buon
Camino". At the end of the day we reach Puente la Reina where we stay in a small
hotel located on a narrow, cobble-stoned street that has changed little
in the past thousand years. At the
end of the street we see the Puente La Reina
(Queen's Bridge) which was financed by the queen in medieval times for pilgrims
use and today is still the way out of town as one walks the
Camino. Dinner is in the inn's dining room which has been converted from an old
wine cellar. PUENTE LA REINA
Day 5
- Our w alk is through gentle countryside filled with vineyards and tranquil
villages of the La Rioja wine district. La
Rioja wine is the most famous in Spain but the region is also known for
its white asparagus and its fruit. We stop at the interesting town of Estella which sits astride a craggy bend in
a rushing river and from here, our bus takes us to the remote, four-hundred year old Monasterio
San Millan. The monastery is in an exquisite, secluded setting
surrounded by wild green hills and inside the old building we find a beautiful, four-star
hotel. There are many legends
associated with San Millan - it is said that the oldest books
written in the
Spanish language (Castilian) were found in its library. Dinner included. SAN MILLAN
Day 6 - Today our walk starts near the medieval town of Santo
Domingo de la Calzada and we continue towards Belorado.
The trail winds through gentle rolling hills and tiny villages. At the end of our walk we
continue by bus into the fairy-tale
city of Burgos where the castle, palaces and monasteries reveal the
city’s past grandeur. In medieval times Burgos was the
most significant stopping place for pilgrims and today it contains a
staggering wealth of art. This was the birth place of Spain’s legendary hero El Cid who, in
1094, fought with Christian forces against the Moors. His body lies in the magnificent
Burgos Cathedral. We spend the night
at the Hotel Meson del Cid, a former convent which faces onto the cathedral plaza in the
historic quarter of the city. Dinner included. BURGOS
Day 7 - Our walking tour in Burgos is led by a local guide
who is an expert in the history of the city. The tour includes the gothic
Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and we hear stories of El Cid and
how he tricked local money-lenders into loaning him money to finance his
troops. We visit Las Huelgas which, founded in 1187, is
one of the most important monuments in Spain. The remainder of the day is free to explore Burgos which is one of
Iberia's most beautiful cities with a lovely tree-lined walkway along
its river. Perhaps you would like to shop, sit in a cafe or sample
typical Spanish snacks called "Pinchos". September is
street festival time in Burgos and in the evening streets are often filled with
musical and dance entertainment - everything from guitar to flamenco to folk
to comic puppet shows. BURGOS
Day 8 - After a short bus ride we reach
our starting point on the Camino at Hontanas. From here we walk through the
golden "meseta" of Castile with its great plains and vistas
and along the way
we picnic at the site of an old monastery. Our walk ends at a
small village with a hilltop ruined castle and those who still
feel energetic can climb to the castle for a spectacular view of the
countryside. At the end of the day there is a reward - we stay at a wonderful hotel within the historic
San Zoilo monastery at the town of Carrion de los
Condes.
Be sure to explore the beautiful cloister
before dinner. Dinner included.
CARRION DE LOS CONDES
Day 9 - Aga in, our walk is across the plains. On a
clear day mountains are visible in the distance but this part of Camino
de Santiago follows an ancient Roman road with flat, easy walking. The
breeze ripples fields of grain as we walk alongside a small river. We
end at the town of Villacazar which, in the 1200's, belonged to the
Knights Templar who patrolled the Camino protecting pilgrims from bandits and thieves.
In Villacazar there
is a fascinating Templar church associated with many legends and miracles. From here, late in
the day, we go by bus into Leon, a remarkable city of soaring stone. Our
Posada hotel is in the historic centre and the dining room here is
famous for its excellent food. Dinner included.. LEON
Day 10 - In the morning we walk to explore the old
quarter of Leon with its magnificent Cathedral. With our expert guide,
we visit the Basilica de
San Isidoro with its Pantheon of Kings and fascinating artifacts from
the days of medieval pilgrimage. We see the 16th Palace of Los Guzmanes with its balconies and courtyard and the
Casa de Botines, a 19th century work by the famous Spanish architect
Antoni Gaudi. The afternoon and evening are free. This
is a great place to experience a typical, long Spanish lunch - lunch is the main
meal in Spain and shops close from 2 - 4 (or sometimes 5 pm).
LEON
Day 11 - In the morning we drive from Leon to start our walk at Orbigo. It was here, on the
bridge at Orbigo, in 1434 that a knight names Suero held what may have been the last great medieval tournament. Suero challenged other knights to a joust
because he had been scorned by his lady love. Today if you stand on the
bridge and use a little imagination you can almost hear the horses
whinny and the clash of steel. Suero won the tournament which released
him from his prison of love and one can still see his gold bracelet in
the museum at Santiago.
At Orbigo the terrain changes from flat plains to gentle foothills. The clouds soon reveal themselves to be chains of mountains ahead. Our
goal today is to reach the town of Astorga and it is worth the walk. Here, we find a Cathedral built in
1471 and a
fairytale Bishop's Palace built by the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi. But there is more
than just history in Astorga. The town is famous for its chocolate industry that
has flourished since cocoa was
first brought from the New World. Chocolate lovers will be delighted by
the many shops with their gorgeous displays and enticing aromas. Our hotel faces onto the
plaza overlooking the Gaudi palace and the Cathedral. Dinner included.
ASTORGA
Day 12 - Beyond Astorga we begin one of the most historically important parts of the Camino
(and the most difficult) over Mount Irago. Our bus takes us up to near
the top ( those who feel more energetic can start lower down the
mountain ) to the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross)
under which pilgrims often place a stone which they have been carrying
as penance (a tradition that has been
continued from the 11th century). The terrain is bleak and rugged but
with lovely views and in spring the mountains are covered with
wildflowers. From the top we descend into the
lush "Bierzo" valley region to a tiny village of El Aceibo
which appears to be lost in a medieval time-warp. After lunch here we continue
our descent to the
beautiful town of Molinaseca with its Roman bridge and where walkers may
stop and
dabble their feet in the lovely stream, reward themselves with a beer in
a quaint cafe and browse through the narrow streets. At the end of
the day we continue by bus to our hotel at nearby Villafranca del Bierzo.
In medieval times it was at Villafranca that sick pilgrims were allowed
to quit their pilgrimage and still receive the church's indulgence. Today,
Villafranca still has a medieval atmosphere dominated by a massive
feudal fortress. We stay at the newly renovated Parador with
its pool and spa - perfect for relaxing after a hard day's walk.
VILLAFRANCA
Dinner included.
Day 13 - From Villafranca we have a short bus ride up the
Cebreiro pass. At remote and mysterious
O Cebreiro, a legend claims that the Holy Grail ( the cup from which Christ
drank at the Last Supper) is hidden. Low, oval stone houses called "pallozas"
are remnants
of Celtic times. This is one of the most scenic
stretches of the Camino (although the weather can be unpredictable). Terrain is wild and rugged but we
start
our walk
near the top and make a gradual descent. (The more energetic walkers
start sooner with an ascent).
As we descend, the countryside
becomes less rugged. We are now in the province of Galicia and we see
villages and primitive farms strung along the Camino - sometimes the
villages are just a few houses
surrounding a stone church. Fields are fenced with stone and brambles and
one sees ruins of castles that once protected pilgrims. Some of the
enterprising farmer's wives have set up tables to sell their wares -
fresh berries, sugar-coated pancakes, home-made lace. At the end
of the day we are transferred to the village of Portomarin
which is our base for the next two nights. Our hotel here is the lovely Pousada de Portomarin
with its beautiful
views of a lake and green hills. The town is known for its "queimadas"
(a flaming liqueur mixed with sugar, lemon and coffee beans) and we hear the
strange witch stories associated with the drink. Dinner included.
PORTOMARIN
Day 14
- Today our walk starts at Samos with its majestic monastery founded in the
6th century and filled with art treasures. There is a large
cloister with interesting carved keystones. Most depict religious
themes related to the Benedictines but one has an amusing hieroglyphic
which says (in Latin), "What are you looking at, stupid?" (Monks walking the
cloister were not supposed to be gazing at the ceiling.) Part of the monastery
was destroyed by fire in 1951 when
the still that was being used to make liqueur exploded!
We walk on a tranquil,
hamlet-laden trail through gently rolling countryside. The trail winds
alongside jewel-like green fields and
between stone fences covered with blackberries and wild-flowers.
Occasionally walkers must stop as a farmer uses the trail to herd his cows
into a field. The family farm is still in existence here and the region
is noted for its wonderful cheese. In
the evening our bus takes us back to the Pousada at Portomarin. Dinner included.
PORTOMARIN
Day 15 - In
the morning our
walk continues through Galicia and in the afternoon we go
by bus towards Santiago.
Those who want to walk the last historic bit into Santiago can
do this although we warn you that it goes through some modern sections
and is not as pretty as rural Galicia. This
final stage of the Camino starts at "Mount of Joy" where
wayfarers of old first caught a glimpse of Santiago Cathedral’s bell towers. Tradition says that the first one
of a group to
arrive at the top was nicknamed Leroy (The King). The pilgrims also stopped to
wash at Lavacolla (probably for the first time in months).
It is a tradition that on reaching Santiago one heads for the Cathedral and hugs the statue of St
James.
An expert local guide meets us and gives us a tour of the Cathedral and
the old part of Santiago. Our hotel is an 18th century former
Jesuit residence located in the old quarter near the Cathedral and with a lovely garden courtyard. In the evening we have a farewell dinner. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Day 16 - Our tour ends after breakfast. If you
would like to stay for another day or
two to explore Santiago's historic sites, extra hotel nights can be
arranged. There is a local bus you can take to Finisterre or it is
fascinating just to wander
Santiago's
narrow medieval streets filled with shops and cafes.
The region is known for its great seafood and local cheeses. If
you cant spare extra time for an extended stay then it is just a
twenty-minute ride to Santiago Airport for a flight to Madrid.
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