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10 Night Itinerary:
Day 1 - We
meet at
the Barcelo Nervion Hotel in central Bilbao at 3.30 pm and immediately
transfer by private coach to our first hotel in the fairy-tale
city of Burgos. This was the birth place of Spain’s legendary hero El Cid who, in
1094, fought with Christian forces against the Moors and whose body lies in the magnificent cathedral.
In medieval times Burgos was the
most significant stopping place for pilgrims and today it contains a
staggering wealth of art. We spend the night
at the Hotel Meson del Cid which has a magnificent view onto the cathedral plaza in the
historic quarter of the city. Dinner included. BURGOS Day 2 - Our
walking tour in Burgos is led by a local guide who is an expert
in the history of the city. The tour includes the great, gothic
Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and we hear stories of the
legendary hero El Cid
and how he tricked local money-lenders into loaning him money to finance
his troops. We visit the Monasterio de
Las Huelgas which, founded in 1187, is
one of the most important monuments in Spain. There is time in the
afternoon to stroll along the lovely tree-lined walkway along the river. Perhaps you would like to
sit in a cafe or sample
typical Spanish snacks called "Pinchos" . We stay again at the
Meson del Cid. September is street festival time in Burgos and
in the evening streets are filled with musical and dance
entertainment. Perhaps guitar, flamenco or comic puppet
shows. BURGOS
Day 3 - After a short bus ride, we reach the village of Fromista which dates
back to Roman times. From here we start our walk on the Camino as the
trail traverses
the countryside of Castile with its great plains and vistas. In
the late afternoon we continue to Carrion de Los Condes,
a town which, in the 11th century was home to villainous Counts who (according
to legend) married and
mistreated El Cid's daughters. This stage of the Camino is easy walking and the effort is worthwhile
when we reach our destination - a wonderful hotel within the historic
San Zoilo monastery. The building dates back to 947AD and has kept relics of Saint Zoilo
since 1047. In the Middle Ages it was an important abbey and was the seat of the court of the kings of Castile and
León. Today it
is a hotel that combines modern comforts with old world atmosphere.
Rooms that were once monk's quarters are arranged around a lovely courtyard and
around the original cloister. Dinner included. CARRION DE LOS CONDES
Day 4 - Today we continue our walk for the morning
and in the afternoon our bus takes us into Leon, a
remarkable city of soaring stone. Here we have a guided walking tour led by an expert local
guide to see the magnificent cathedral with stained glass windows
preserved from the 13th century, the Basilica de San Isidoro with its Pantheon of Kings,
the Hostal de San Marcos, the 16th Palace of Los Guzmanes with its balconies and
courtyard and the Casa de Botines, a 19th century work by the famous
Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi. Our hotel is a lovely posada in the heart of
the historic quarter just a block from the Cathedral. Dinner in the
hotel's highly regarded restaurant is included. LEON
Day 5 - In the morning we have a short drive from Leon to start our walk at Orbigo. It was here, on the
bridge at Orbigo, in 1434 that a knight, Suero, held what may have held
the last great medieval tournament. Suero challenged other knights to a joust
because he had been scorned by his lady love. He won the tournament which released
him from his prison of love and one can still see his gold bracelet in
the museum at Santiago. Here at Orbigo the terrain changes from flat plains to
gentle foothills.
Clouds in the distance soon reveal themselves to be chains of mountains - the Leon
Mountains to the West and the Cordillera Cantabrica to the North. At the
end of the day we reach Astorga in time to see its Cathedral built in
1471, the
fairytale Bishop's Palace built by the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi
and the interesting "Museum of the Camino". But
Astorga has more than history - it is known for its chocolate industry which
has flourished since cocoa was
first brought from the New World. Chocolate shops with wonderful
displays line the main street. Our hotel faces onto the
plaza overlooking the Gaudi palace and the cathedral. Dinner included
(perhaps dessert will be chocolate?)
ASTORGA
Day 6 - Beyond Astorga we begin one of the most historically important parts of the Camino over Mount Irago.
Our bus takes us up
to near the top of Mount Orbigo (those who wish can ride all the way and
start their walk at the top). At the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross)
pilgrims often place a stone which they have been carrying
as penance (an 11th century tradition). The terrain is
spectacular and the gradual downhill walk is quite easy. From the top we descend into the
lush "Bierzo" valley region for lunch in El Aciebo, a tiny
village which appears to be
caught in a medieval time warp. Our walk continues gradually down to the lovely town of
Molinaseca where walkers can stop and dabble their feet in the lovely
stream, reward themselves with a beer in a quaint cafe and browse
through the narrow streets. At the end of the day we
continue by bus to Villafranca del Bierzo. In medieval times
it was at Villafranca that sick pilgrims were allowed to quit and
still receive the church's indulgence. Today, the town of
Villafranca retains its medieval atmosphere dominated with its massive
feudal fortress. We stay at the newly renovated Parador with
its spa and heated pool.
Dinner included.
VILLAFRANCA
Day 7 - From Villafranca we have a short bus ride up the
1,293 m. Cebreiro pass. At the hamlet of O Cebreiro a mysterious legend says that the Holy Grail
is hidden and many miracles are said to have
taken place. This is one of the most scenic
stretches of the Camino (although the weather can be unpredictable). Terrain is wild and rugged but we start
our walk
near the top and make a gradual descent. Eventually the countryside
becomes more gentle as we enter beautiful Galicia. Gray and green tones predominate and one
hears the Gallego local dialect.
Villages are strung along the Camino - sometimes just a few houses
surrounding a stone church. Fields are fenced with stone and brambles and
one sees the ruins of castles that once protected pilgrims. We reach the
quaint town of Triacastela and then continue by
bus to the town of Monteforte de Lemos which is off the Camino about
30 km but worth the drive. In a monumental
complex, comprised of the castle, the monastery and
the Condes de Lemos Palace is housed the Parador de Monforte and it is
here that we stay the night. The origins of the complex date back to the 9th
century but today it is a magnificently restored Parador hotel. Dinner included.
MONFORTE
Day 8 - Today
we travel by bus to Samos with its majestic monastery founded
in the 6th century. The monastery is filled with art treasures and has a
large cloister with interesting carved stones - most depict religious
themes related to the Benedictines but one has an amusing hieroglyphic
which, when translated, says (in Latin), "What are you looking at, stupid?"
(Monks were not supposed to be looking at the ceiling). Our hike
begins here on a tranquil trail through rolling countryside
alongside jewel-like green fields and
between stone fences covered with blackberries and wild-flowers. Late in
the day we reach Portomarin where we stay at the Pousada de Portomarin
with its beautiful
views of a lake and green hills. The town is located
in the Mino Valley and because of its bridge was an important
stop on the Camino. Portomarin is known for its "queimadas"
(a flaming liqueur with sugar, lemon and coffee beans) and we hear the
strange legends associated with this drink. Dinner included.
PORTOMARIN
Day 9 - Now we are on the final stage of the Camino. The Galician countryside is dotted
with tiny hamlets and fragrant forests of eucalyptus and
pine. In the evening we return to the Pousada at Portomarin. Dinner included. PORTOMARIN
Day 10 Today we do the final stage of the Camino. Just outside
Santiago the Camino leads to the "Mount
of Joy" where pilgrims first caught a glimpse of Santiago
Cathedral’s bell towers. Tradition says that the first one of a
group to arrive at the top was nicknamed Leroy (The King).
Pilgrims also stopped to wash at Lavacolla (probably the first
time in months). Those who wish to walk the last few
kilometres into the city can do so or can take the bus to the
hotel. It is a tradition that
pilgrims head for the
Cathedral on arrival and hug the statue of St James. Before dinner we have a guided tour of the old city of
Santiago de Compostela led by a local English-speaking
historical guide. The tour includes the interior of the famous
Cathedral as well as the Cathedral Museum. The museum is fascinating with its many
gold and silver artifacts that have been collected over the past
thousand years. Our hotel is an 18th century former Jesuit
residence located in the old quarter near the Cathedral In the evening we have a farewell dinner. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Day 11 - Tour ends after breakfast. If you would like to stay for
another day or two to explore Santiago's historic sites, extra hotel
nights can be arranged.
It is
fascinating to wander
Santiago's
narrow medieval streets filled with shops and cafes or you can take a
local bus to Finnisterre. For those who can't take extra time to explore
it is just a twenty minute taxi ride to the Santiago Airport for a
flight to Madrid.
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